MONDAY 20 JUNE Posted 3 weeks later.
Zuerich – Luzerne – Hergiswald – Grimselpass – Chamonix – Aix-les-Bains. 356 km / 221 miles.
Saw David before we left in any case. Shouted goodbye to Nina, who didn’t come down to see us. She has an exam this morning, but had seemed a little preoccupied all weekend. Not her usual lively self.

The Pilgrimage Church at Hergiswald

Von driving, we headed to Hergiswald outside Luzern to see the rococo Pilgrimage church with its wonderful ceiling. We had the place to ourselves, so I photographed the interior of the church from every angle. I should have used the tripod. Lovely weather. Von finds she has left her terracotta rainjacket in Zuerich.

On our way to the Grimselpass we passed the Reichenbach Falls. I thought it was a Conan Doyle fiction but it really does exist. A vintage car rally was taking place over the pass — Alvis, Ford, Rolls-Royces but mainly BMW 328s. And bikers of course, bikers everywhere. The top of the pass was frankly rather disgusting, with a huge car park, fast food outlets, litter, oips milling about, so we pressed on down César Ritz’s long home valley. Stopped to buy apricots, a mere €8 a kilo, but they were special. Not as good as the ones from the Auvergne all those years ago, but pretty good nevertheless.

The César Ritz Memorial Chapel — not

We picnicked by a little roadside chapel, i.e. at the side of the road. Gwyn took over driving as we climbed out of the valley towards Chamonix. The autoroute from Chamonix is twisty and tight, and drivers who know it better than I delight in hammering down it full pelt while I attempted to veer out of their way.

We arrived at the Auberge St Simond on the outskirts of Aix-les-Bains around 6, nestled between the main road and the main line. A pleasant, shady place with a garden for Milo to run in. And a good pool, too. I’d have been in there like a shot 20 years ago. Sad that things change.

We reserved a table in the garden right under our balcony, so Milo could see us as we ate. It was a hot, balmy evening; a gorgeous day. We went for a walk along the well-hidden lake front and had a beer.

Finally found the lake at Aix-les-Bains

When we came back there was a couple sitting at the table we had reserved. Irritating. I had brochets and entrecote on the Menu Touristique (29€) and Von had foie gras and entrecote (30€). The place had a red M, but the meal, although very pleasant, was not memorable. Large leftovers put in doggy bag – much enjoyed for breakfast by M.

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